More versatility is also offered in the form of a removable front sight, for tactical shooters who have a distinct preference in terms of sight picture, material or construction. This means that the M9A3s safety lever can be used in a safety-decocker mode or it can be converted to perform a decocker-only function for those who prefer this configuration.
This makes trigger-reach simple even for those with smaller hands, besides offering a more compact profile for those carrying the M9A3 concealed.Īll this, plus the crisp checkering on the front- and backstrap as well as removable wraparound grip, make any combat hold simple and consistent. This instinctive pointing is highly prized by tactical shooters and makes for consistent-and consistently-accurate-target acquisition.Īlso, the grips are thin in spite of being able to accommodate a double-stack, high-capacity magazine. Its vertical configuration makes it easy to point the handgun to where one would normally point the index finger of the dominant hand. In short, this combat pistol was designed to be perfect for any tactical use, including home- and personal defense, tactical competitions as well as duty carry in any condition. From Vertec-style thin grip to universal slide design convertible from safety-decocker to decocker-only, from a beveled magazine well to oversize mag-release button, from a 3-slot built-in Picatinny rail to high-capacity capability for maximum firepower, the M9A3 was designed to deliver the performance that military, law-enforcement and VIP-protection professionals demand.
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Would you like to log into Beretta using your logged in facebook information? Home Firearms M9A3. However, if yours is the old non-radiused style blocks, I'd go ahead and put a new production one in and just never worry about it again.Read More. I put approx 100k on one locking block in one gun (block was still going when the barrel lugs finally let go), and ~60k on another (still going, just switched competition platforms). I kept a spare on hand when competing with a beretta, but I only ever broke one, and that was an old non-radiused style. Locking blocks, especially when not fed a steady of diet of hot +p rounds, are quite robust these days. It ran 100% and made the trigger light as hell, but I didn't like the lock time that resulted). Using Federal #100 primers, I competed with a 15lb 1911 mainspring, and it ran 100%, but I wouldn't recommend that for defensive use (actually, for a while I ran that spring w/ a couple coils cut off.
A D spring is perfectly fine for a carry gun if using decent ammo.
Unless you are shooting a lot of eastern block or south african NATO stuff, then stick w/ the stock FS spring (The primers in that stuff can be hard as hell). I would suggest a "D" model main spring (part 38). When it goes you have to manually decock the gun, otherwise the gun still runs (except once when the broken piece jammed the gun up HARD, but it ran ok once cleared).Īlways good to have a spare firing pin (part 12) and extractor (part 6) on hand for any gun, imo. Those are pretty fragile, especially in later production models. Get a spare hammer release lever (part 31). Replace them every 5-10k rounds if you want 100% confidence in your gun. The newer factory springs are more robust than earlier designs, so no need to get the wolff unit (which I am not a fan of anyway for various reasons). You want trigger return springs (part 26). M92/M96 INOX | World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools - BROWNELLS